Tejal Somvanshi
Your favorite salon gel manicure just got complicated. Since September 1, 2025, the European Union officially banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) in all cosmetic products, forcing nail salons across 27 member states to immediately stop using gel polishes containing this chemical. Meanwhile, TPO is not banned federally in the United States, where approximately 100 million women use nail products regularly.
The divide creates a stark beauty reality: European clients now get TPO-free manicures by law, while Americans might unknowingly expose themselves to a substance European regulators consider potentially harmful to fertility.
As safety expert Dr. Gerald Goldhaber recently noted on social media, “EU banned gel nail polish ingredient TPO, which it deemed possibly ‘carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction.’ TPO is unregulated in US. To avoid TPO make sure your salon has TPO-free polishes.”
The Science Behind the Ban
TPO works as a photoinitiator — the chemical that absorbs energy from UV or LED lamps to trigger the reaction that turns liquid gel polish into that glossy, chip-resistant coating. During curing, TPO splits into two active fragments that react with monomers, creating a solid three-dimensional network.
European regulators classified TPO as a CMR category 1B reproductive toxicant under Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2024/197, meaning it’s presumed to have adverse effects on fertility based on animal studies. The classification stems primarily from studies in rats that showed negative reproductive outcomes for males when animals were repeatedly fed TPO at high doses.
However, cosmetic chemist and nail industry expert Doug Schoon emphasized that “no human studies have been conducted on reproductive toxicity of TPO” and “the exposure conditions in these animal studies bear no resemblance to realistic exposure scenarios in cosmetic use”.
Why Europe vs America Take Different Paths
The regulatory split reflects fundamentally different safety philosophies. The EU takes a hazard-based approach that regulates chemicals based on their “inherent properties,” while the U.S. follows a risk-based approach that “considers both the hazard and the likelihood of exposure”.
Under EU Cosmetics Regulation Article 15, substances classified as CMR category 1A or 1B are automatically banned unless a derogation is granted — and no one requested an exemption for TPO before the ban.
The EU regulation contains no “sell-through” provision, meaning salons must immediately stop using TPO-containing products and safely dispose of existing stock, even if purchased before September 1. Professional manicurists cannot sell, transfer, or even give away these products within the EU.
Francesca Rapolla of the British trade association CTPA told Scratch magazine that “the industry did not, and could not, defend the continued use of this ingredient in nail products, mainly because it could not demonstrate that there are no alternative ingredients”.
TPO-Free Alternatives Already Exist
The ban hasn’t left consumers hanging. Manucurist has formulated their Green Flash LED polish with ethyl trimethylbenzoyl phenylphosphinate (TPO-L), a safer alternative photoinitiator that’s “effective, non-toxic, non-CMR, and fully compliant with European regulations”.
OPI’s newly reformulated Intelli-Gel system is now both HEMA-free and TPO-free, with improved application and vegan formulation. Other brands offering TPO-free options include Après Nail, Aimeili, and Bio Seaweed Gel.
The Nail Manufacturer Council on Safety confirmed that “safe and effective alternatives to TPO are already on the market”.
What US Consumers Should Do
Despite the EU ban, Dobos maintains that “TPO is pretty safe as currently used in nail gels”. Dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman described the EU’s decision as “more of a precautionary move rather than a response to strong human evidence”.
For concerned consumers, experts recommend:
- Checking ingredient lists for “Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide”
- Asking salons about their gel polish brands and TPO content
- Applying broad-spectrum sunscreen to hands before UV curing, as recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology
- Choosing from the growing selection of TPO-free gel brands
Dobos believes it’s unlikely the FDA will ban TPO federally, though some states might align with European standards.
UV Exposure Considerations
Gel manicures require UVA light exposure for curing. The American Academy of Dermatology notes that UVA rays “penetrate more deeply into the skin than UVB rays and are more likely to cause DNA mutations, which can increase cancer risk”.
The Academy recommends applying broad-spectrum sunscreen to hands before using UV devices during gel manicures.
The EU banned TPO in cosmetic products effective September 1, 2025, under Commission Regulation (EU) 2025/877. European salons disposed of TPO-containing stock and transitioned to compliant alternatives. TPO remains legal in U.S. cosmetic products, where both TPO-containing and TPO-free gel polish options continue to be available. The ongoing transition highlights the growing importance of sustainable practices in the beauty industry.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) USE HTMLWhat is TPO and why was it banned in Europe?
TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide) is a chemical used in gel nail polishes to make them harden under UV light. The European Union banned it because animal studies suggested it might harm fertility. The ban took effect September 1, 2025, meaning salons in 27 EU countries can no longer use products containing TPO.
Is TPO banned in the United States?
No, TPO is not banned in the United States. The US follows a different approach to chemical regulation than Europe. While the EU bans substances based on their potential hazards, the US considers both the hazard and how people are actually exposed to it in real life before making decisions.
How does TPO work in gel nail polish?
TPO is called a “photoinitiator” – it reacts to the UV or LED light at nail salons. When the light hits it, TPO splits into active parts that help turn the liquid gel polish into a solid, glossy coating that resists chipping. This process is called “curing.”
Should I be worried if I get gel manicures regularly?
Experts have different opinions. The EU ban is based on animal studies where rats were fed large amounts of TPO. According to cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos, “TPO is pretty safe as currently used in nail gels.” Some dermatologists describe the ban as “precautionary” rather than based on strong human evidence. If you’re concerned, you can ask for TPO-free alternatives.
How can I check if my gel polish contains TPO?
Look at the ingredient list for “Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide.” You can also ask your salon what brands they use and whether they contain TPO. Many brands are already creating TPO-free alternatives that work just as well.
Are there safe alternatives to TPO in gel manicures?
Yes! Several brands now offer TPO-free gel polishes, including Manucurist’s Green Flash LED polish (which uses TPO-L, a safer alternative), OPI’s reformulated Intelli-Gel system, Après Nail, Aimeili, and Bio Seaweed Gel. The Nail Manufacturer Council on Safety has confirmed that “safe and effective alternatives to TPO are already on the market.”
How can I protect myself when getting gel manicures?
If you’re concerned about TPO exposure, you can: 1) Ask for TPO-free gel polish brands, 2) Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen to your hands before UV curing (recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology), and 3) Choose regular nail polish instead of gel for some manicures.
Is there a risk from the UV light used to cure gel polish?
The American Academy of Dermatology notes that the UVA rays used to cure gel polish “penetrate more deeply into the skin than UVB rays and are more likely to cause DNA mutations, which can increase cancer risk.” They recommend applying broad-spectrum sunscreen to hands before using UV devices during gel manicures.
What happened to existing gel polishes with TPO in Europe?
The EU regulation had no “sell-through” provision, meaning European salons had to immediately stop using TPO products and properly dispose of their existing stock on September 1, 2025, even if they were purchased earlier. Salons cannot sell, transfer, or give away these products within the EU.
